Motif Sumba

Kain tenun Sumba, secara garis besar dibagi menjadi Hinggi yaitu kain untuk pria dan dan Lau Pahikung yaitu kain untuk wanita. Selain itu, warna kain tenun Sumba juga sedikit banyak dipengaruhi oleh lokasi. Di Sumba Timur, biasanya kain tenun berwarna dasar hitam dengan motif berwarna, sementara di Sumba Barat, kain tenun berwarna dasar biru tua dengan motif berwarna.


Selain sebagai busana sehari-hari, kain tenun Sumba juga dipakai dalam tari-tarian pada pesta/upacara adat, sebagai mas kawin, juga digunakan ketika ada upacara kematian. Ketika seseorang meninggal, terlebih jika ia seorang Raja atau keturunannya, ketika dikubur, jasadnya harus dibebat dalam ratusan kain Tenun dalam posisi meringkuk, barulah jasadnya dikuburkan. Selain hal-hal tersebut, kain tenun Sumba juga digunakan untuk alat tukar dan pembayaran denda. Motif dan warna tertentu dalam kain Tenun, juga menunjukan strata sosial pemakainya, juga sebagai lambang penghargaan terhadap suku, yang diharapkan dapat menghindarkan mereka dari gangguan alam, bencana, roh-roh jahat dan hal-hal buruk lainnya. Kain tenun juga digunakan untuk penghargaan kepada tamu yang datang dari wilayah lain, sebagai penghormatan.

Keindahan kain Tenun Sumba, tidak lepas dari teknik pembutan dan motif yang ditampilkan. Pada pembuatan Hinggi, benang Lungsin (warp) diikat untuk memperoleh desain gambar ketika benang tersebut dicelup pewarna. Setelah proses pencelupan, kain dikeringkan kemudian proses diteruskan dengan membuka kalita (tali ikatan) pada pola yang diharapkan akan dicelup warna berikut. Dua warna pada sebuah kain dengan motif tertentu dibentuk dengan cara mengubah posisi yang diikat.

Karena proses pengikatan ini ketika pencelupan, larutan pewarna meresap sampai ke pinggir benang yang terikat dan membuat warna menjadi sedikit membaur. Nah, ‘cacat’ inilah yang menjadi ciri khas motif ikat.

Sementara itu pada pembuatan Lau (sarung) motif disulamkan pada bagian bawah sarung. Proses pembuatan dengan menggunakan lidi untuk membantu menata benang dan motif.

Motif kain tenun Sumba, benar-benar menjadi simbol dalam kehidupan sehari-hari masyarakatnya. Terbagi dalam motif manusia, motif binatang, motif geometris dan motif kontemporer. Misalnya pada motif binatang, ayam menjadi perlambang kehidupan wanita ketika berumah tangga. Kuda menjadi lambing kekuatan dan kejantanan, sementara burung kakaktua yang berkelompok menjadi lambang persatuan dan musyarawah dalam adat.

Motif Kaliuda Merah

Motif Kaliuda Biru

Motif Sumba 1

Motif Kaliuda 2

Motif Udang

Motif Pahikung 1

Motif Ende Lio

Ciri khas motif tenun Lio yang lain adalah ukurannya yang kecil dengan bentuk geometris, manusia, biawak dan lain-lain yang disusun membentuk jalur-jalur kecil berwarna merah, kuning atau biru di atas dasar warna gelap. Kain tenun Lio ini kadang juga diberi hiasan tambahan atau aplikasi dengan manik-manik dan kulit kerang. Pakaian dengan hiasan khusus ini hanya dipergunakan dalam upacara-upacara adat tertentu.

Lawo dengan motif bergaya Eropa

Lawo Pundi

Motif  Lawo Mangga (Jopu)

Motif Lawo Daki

Aneka Motif Tenun Ikat Ende Lio

Motif Sikka 2

    Motif Rusa & Kuda

Motif Mawar

Motif Bintang Kejora

Motif Pohon Kehidupan

Motif Sikka 1

A	B	C

Magical Drawing on Tenun Ikat

Isles of Nusa Tenggara such as Flores, Sumba, Timor, Alor  (FLOBAMORA) is well known by its beautiful tenun ikat. This piece of hand woven clothe with unusual ornaments on it has broad meaning than just a dress. It is a symbol that reflects the way of the people life, their belief and philosophy since ancient period.

It is an old tradition for women in Nusa Tenggara weaving their family’s clothes and sarongs. They got their skill from their ancestor for generations, even since 1500 BC. In the beginning, weaving was a sacred activity with full of religious values on it. The weavers drew ornaments and designs on a cloth or sarong in the hope to give power to the person who would wear it, so it could against demon and evil spirits.

Every single ornament and design on tenun ikat has a certain meaning. Human design symbolizes fertility, breeding or longer age. Animal designs such as snake symbolize underwater worlds, meanwhile buffalo as a fertile soil and frock as a rain. The weavers also use geometrical ornaments like circle, triangle, quadrangle, and so on. These ornaments usually symbolize good powers to heal ill body and to drive away many diseases.

By learning the ornaments we know that people in Nusa Tenggara want to live in harmony. They practice balancing principles in a daily life and activities, even when they are weaving and wearing tenun ikat or sarong. They distinguish male from female design by using bright and dark colors, or small and big ornaments.

There are many kinds of tenun ikat based on their function. They are lawo (sarong for woman), ragi (sarong for man), lesu (shawl for covering head) and songket (black sarong for special ceremonies).

Most of districts in Nusa Tenggara have their own design. There are hundreds, such as Ende – Lio design and Timor’s has small ornaments, most of them are mixed of human, animal, plant, and geometrical patterns that fill almost all the cloth. It gives beautiful and delicate impression, even soft and calm, because there are no contrast colors. So, if we want to identify the patterns, we must observe it carefully.

On the contrary, Krowe-Sikka’s and Sumba’s use big ornaments. So, the contrast is strong and makes us easy to distinguish male from female designs, even if it has geometrical patterns.

Manggarai and Riung does not really have tenun ikat. However it has songket, a black sarong with geometrical pattern on it. Songket has bright colors like bright green, bright yellow, red, and bright purple just like grass flower colors. The ornament is drawn into two parts: one is fulfilled a half of sarong as a men design, the other is drawn in a certain distance with rare patterns and called women’s.

Tenun Buna from North Timor almost like songket, but there’s a little difference in weaving technique.  It has geometrical ornaments with bright colour like blue or yellow.

In the past, magical and religion values on a piece of tenun ikat were more important than its beauty. But it spent much times and energy to make a sarong, songket, or shawl. For example, it needed three until six months to finish a sarong or songket; meanwhile just took a month to make a short shawl. The weavers had to work six until eight hours a day, and seven days a week. While working, they couldn’t do another job like caring the children or cultivating rice fields. That’s why they worked after harvest season.

In some regions they implemented labor division.  Tenun ikat was made only by women in villages that has unfertile soil, such as Nggela or Sikka which located in coastal area.  So that they could barter their tenun ikats with agricultural products from fertile soil villages.

The longest process came from coloring the yarns. To get unique and unusual colors like dark blue, dark brown, and dark red, they used natural materials from plants that lived in the forest. Usually they used root of mengkudu (Morinda) and tarum (Indigofera) trees. At first they spun cotton into yarns, then tied warp thread with gebang leaf dry (Corypha utan) to create a pattern or design. Next, dyed yarns into boiling water that be mixed with the natural dyes plant. This process could take weeks until months. Then, they could start weaving.

About Us

SEKOLENGO sHOP

Sekolengo Shop established in 1983 by Mr Mathias Ratu Redo.  For nearly 30 years the shop has been accumulating and selling tenun ikat from many villages in Nusa Tenggara,  which mostly are fine tenun ikat.

Our shop selling tenun ikat for :

-       Collection

-       Fashion: sackdress, gown, blazer, skirt, shawl, scarf, hats, handbag, etc

-       Uniform Dress for companies, school, or special ceremonies

-       Interior Design :  

Contact :

Aldo       : 085283181031

Ety        : 082122005143

Email         : sekolengo@gmail.com

Website     : www.sekolengo.blogspot.com

Facebook   : Tenun Ikat Flobamora

Twitter       : @sekolengoshop

Adress :

Jakarta  : Jl. Raya Perikanan Gg. Perikanan RT.001/RW.04 Pasar Minggu – Jakarta Selatan

Flores    : Kompleks Mini Market Pasar Lama, Jl. Moa Toda, Maumere – Flores